February 03, 2020

Isoamyl Laurate and Isoamyl cocoate


Maybe many of you remember that for a long time I've not used oils in pure form (only as part of ready-made production products) in caring for my hair. Frankly, I didn’t even think about searching for information about how to make oils light in weight, so that they don't overload my hair, but at the same time continue to show their moisture-retaining properties.

But recently, I accidentally stumbled upon information about one interesting component - Isoamyl Laurate, Isoamyl cocoate.

It's a colourless and odourless vegetable-based emollient that is 100% biodegradable, made from renewable natural sources such as sugar and coconut. It possesses unsurpassed unique and amazing qualities: a superior volatile behaviour, making it the ideal, “improved”, natural replacement for volatile silicones.

Benefits:
• it reduces the soaping effect/whitening of creams that can occur, especially with natural emulsions, when high amounts of waxes or fatty alcohol are used. Adding Isoamyl laurate, Isoamyl cocoate to such an emulsion reduces this whitening effect efficiently
• it dramatically improves the spreadability of deodorants and emulsions with high amount of vegetable oils, butters or waxes. The effect is comparable to volatile silicones
• sun screens and vitamins can give a sticky skin feel to an emulsion. When Isoamyl laurate, Isoamyl cocoate is added, this tackiness disappears completely. An ideal solution for day creams with a high SPF or a high content of vitamins
• it can easily transform W/O-emulsions into light emulsions that can almost not be distinguished from a O/W-emulsions
• it's very effective at dispersing powders such as Titanium Dioxide, Aluminium Chlorohydrate and iron oxide pigments
• it's soluble with Dimethicone so it is therefore a powerful (waterproof) make up remover that does not irritate the eyes
• it's very effective at dissolving sunscreens, and is more effective than synthetic emollients such as Alkyl Benzoate.

This component really interested me! But, unfortunately, I couldn't find it in free availability for purchase in my city. Only as part of the ready-made products, one of which I immediately acquired through the online-store and which you can see on the title photo of this post.


INCI: Isoamyl laurate, Isoamyl Cocoate, Persea Gratissima (Avocado) oil, Vitis vinifera oil, Olive oil, Peach kernel seed oil, Hemp seed oil, Tocopheryl Acetate, Geranium essential oil, Ylang-ylang essential oil, Lavender essential oil, Aniba rosaeodora essential oil, Aloe vera extract, Arctium lappa extract, Echinacea purpurea extract.

Practical application
So, I washed all my hair twice with pseudo-natural shampoo Botavikos Moisturizing. Wrapped hair in a towel for 10 minutes. After that, gave them some more time to dry naturally. Next, I distributed on a slightly damp ends and a length of 5 drops of Siberina oil.
To the touch, this oil didn't seem silky to me, on the contrary, it was somehow rough, creaky, non-slip, really “dry”. It was felt on the hair as the same 🤨


Results
The effect manifested itself immediately and became even more obvious after the hair was completely dry:
- that part of the hair where the oil was applied became more matte, without a glossy shine
- provokes a severe overload of hair. There was a strong desire to quickly wash it off from the hair 😬 The length quickly and strongly stuck together in separate strands. Hair seems to cling to each other, tangled and it's difficult to brushing
- very dry ends!! 😰 They crunch and creak a lot
- absolutely doesn't facilitate combing hair, doesn't have the conditioning properties that silicone indelible oils have.


As a result, I went to rewashed my hair, or rather only that part of the length where this oil was applied. This time I used a deep-cleansing shampoo Wella Pro-Series The Volume. The length was cleansed, a strong shine come back, elasticity appeared, the crunch of the ends and dryness were completely absent.
Then I applied again this oil on my hair that was naturally almost dried up, but I already took a portion even less (literally 3 small drops!). The result is exactly the same as in the first use: dryness, dullness, crunching, decrease in elasticity, tangling.

In general, I didn’t like the effect of this product on my hair at all.. Of course, I understand that it’s too early to draw conclusions and I need to at least buy this component in its pure form in order to try to make a “dry” oil by myself.

I also applied it on my face. And here I really liked the effect! On skin, this oil behaves with dignity in my understanding - it's perfectly distributed, doesn't leave any greasy shine! There is no sensation of stickiness and an oily film, the skin continues to “breathe”. It's not absorbed to the end and even after 12 hours remains on the surface. It seems to be there and it seems to be not! 🤔 In general, it looks like a matte sebum. There is absolutely no feeling of dryness.
Apparently, when your own sebum begins to stand out, it interacts with this component, so the skin continues to look good, and doesn't shine like a "greasy pancake" even after so many hours.

I didn't experience any allergic reactions to either the oil itself or its aroma. But here, in principle, everything is very individual!

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